25 Sep

25 Sep - Coup fever has died down here on Koh Chang, where a warm welcome awaits all members of the Council for Democratic Reform under Constitutional Monarchy. The tanks are off the streets of Kai Bae, the Klong Son militia is back in its barracks & life on KC is as normal as it ever was. But what passes for normality on Koh Chang if often rather unfathomable. As the following example will attempt to prove beyond all reasonable doubt:

In this role-play you put yourself in the shoes of a DASTA official. Remember, they're the guys responsible for building only half a road around the island, a monstrous concrete walkway though supposedly protected mangroves, building toilets without any water supply and generally making a balls up of any project they come within a mile of.

You are supervising the project to add visitor facilities to the view point above Sea View hotel, Kai Bae, which really does have great views. You decide that what the area really needs are two things in order to attract more visitors. The first is a no-brainer. There should be a huge concrete tower (see photo), as there aren't nearly enough of those on the island and tall structures are popular the world over. I'm betting that they'll be a large sign atop of this pole flashing 'Scenic Viewpoint' in blue neon.

The second is a postbox, so that people can drive up here and post stuff - it's obvious really. However, your challenge is to decide what design you should make the postbox. Something traditionally Thai? Something nautical? Something environmental? Something elephantine? But, if you work for DASTA it's pretty obvious that you want to go down in history as a forward thinking guy, and what's more forward thinking and up-to-the-minute than a scale model of Flash Gordon's rocketship from the 23rd century?

So, now instead of having any of that annoying scenery crap in your holiday snaps, you can pose next to a little red V2 flying bomb.

Good news . . . . 10 days ago the entrance fee to the waterfall was increased from 200 to 400 baht however, on 23 Sept, Thai National News Bureau & Bangkok Post reported that the National Parks, Wildlife and Plants Conservation Department has now seen sense and postponed the increase until November 30, 2007. The department said it did not want the fee adjustment to affect tour businesses which sold the trips to these national parks at old prices. Why they didn't bother telling anyone that they wouldn't increase the prices on Sept 15th, before Sept 15th came around and not a week later is information that can only be divulged on a need to know basis . . . . and members of the public don't need to know, otherwise they'd already know, wouldn't they?

All of which begs the question . . . Why, as of today, is the sign at the entrance to Klong Plu waterfall still showing the entrance fee as 400 baht for foreigners and who's keeping the addition 200 baht/head that's being charged illegally?

Anyone interested in what I'm reliably told is the nicest coffeeshop / internet cafe on Koh Mak? It was built by the owner of a resort but she doesn't have time to run both it & the resort, so it's for lease. Annual rental of 200,000 baht. Brand new, got most of the equipment you need. Includes living accommodation for the owner, high speed satellite internet connection, large garden area, covered outdoor seating. Best of all, unlike every small business you'll see for sale on Koh Chang, there's no 'Key money' required. I'll have photos in a couple of weeks time when I go to Koh Mak. If you're interested let me know & I'll put you in touch with someone on Koh Mak who can provide more details.

Also 1 Rai of land to rent on Whitesands, koh Chang for the same price as renting a couple of shop units. Clifftop, with uninterrupted seaviews - ideal for a restaurant or long stay accommodation. 9 year contract possible.

21 Sep

21 Sept - Coup Update: My fleeting association with fame related to the coup comes in the form of being quoted in an article in today's Daily Telegraph (UK) newspaper. ' Overthrow almost not exciting enough '. In my defense the journalist emailed me late last night after I'd polished off the best part of a winebox. (Toasting the Generals of course, 'Vive La Revolution' as they say in Thailand.)

20 Sep

20 Sept - Coup News: This being Thailand, Miss Orasa, the celebrity hand-model who's career was tragically cut short when she lost both arms below the elbow, has been employed as rather pretty coup spokes-babe. Her duties include passing on the message reminding viewers that the army has all the guns so it's best not to upset the Generals at this difficult time.

But how did yesterday's coup affected Koh Chang? A quick rundown of the past 24 hours as it happened:

8.00 am Thaksin Shinawatra calls an urgent teleconference with all armed forces' commanders at Government House, but none attends. On Koh Chang, I noticed a couple of police hanging around outside the 7-eleven in Klong Son. Possibly, paying their electricity bills, or was something more sinister about to unfold?

12.00 pm After finishing the webcam teleconference with Thaksin, who is New York, several Cabinet members check with reporters if there would really be a coup. On Koh Chang it starts raining, is this an omen?

6.30 pm The Army's special forces from Lopburi move into Bangkok. Gen Prem Tinnasulalonda, president of Privy Council, has an audience with HM the King, reportedly on a merit-making ceremony for ML Bau Kittiyakala. On Koh Chang two of our guests take the boat across to Pu-Talay Restaurant, oblivious to the drama unfolding in Bangkok.

9.00 pm The Army's special forces from Lopburi arrive at the Army's Bangkok headquarters. On Koh Chang I take the dog for it's evening walk. Was that a troop carrier or just builders in the back of a pick-up?.

9.30 pm TV channel 5 cancels regular programming and puts on air royally authored songs. Panthongthae, Thaksin's son, reportedly has left Thailand for the UK. On Koh Chang, one of our guests is thinking of leaving to the UK too, in a week or so after the end of his holiday.

10.10 pm CNN reports Bangkok situation. Koh Chang not mentioned.

10.20pm Thaksin declares a state of emergency via the phone from New York. He also issues two orders, transferring en Sondhi from the post of army chief to the PM's Office, and naming Gen Rungroj Mahasaranond as the officer in charge of the crisis. On Koh Chang, no one's sure who's in charge or what they're in charge of - situation normal.

11pm "The Administrative Reform Council" (ARC) issues a first statement on TV network, saying the armed forces and national police have peacefully seized control of Bangkok and surrounding areas. Soldier seize the Shinawatra Building, iTV television station and Thaksin's residence. On Koh Chang all the Thai TV stations are off the air, no tourists affected except those with Thai spouses who now have to put up with them whining about having their daily soap operas interrupted.

11.50pm ARC issues the second statement explaining the reasons for the coup d'etat, citing national disunity and rampant corruption. ARC says it plans to return power quickly to the people. Foreigners now severely affected on Koh Chang as CNN & BBC are off the air and so are all other satellite channels including ESPN which was cut in the middle of an analysis of Rafa Benitez's use of Steven Gerrard this season, and I for one, was looking forward hearing Steve McMahon's analysis. More seriously I do begin to get concerned, my Dad just sent a 'Little Britain Series 3' DVD to me, and I'll be rather annoyed if this coup delays the mail in any way.

8:00 am ARC spokesman announces Gen Sonthi will make announcement on TVs at 9 am. The spokesman also announces that TV stations can resume their normal programmes but most continue to relay signals from Channel 5 except iTV, which briefly airs its morning news programme. On Koh Chang, at our place, Peter goes for tea instead of coffee with his breakfast which is a bit unusual. Unsubstantiated rumours of tanks queuing at the mainland ferry pier as ticket staff try to decide on whether a troop carrier really should travel for the same price as a pick-up or if a truck ticket is more appropriate.

9.00 am Not one to miss an opportunity, I email the ARC asking if I can declare Koh Chang an independent state and install myself as leader and, if not, do they have the phone number of the cute spokeswoman. No reply to either request as of yet.

15 Sep

15 Sept - On the right is the cover of the monthly magazine from DASTA, the Thai government organisation responsible for promoting sustainable development and basically protecting the marine national park from exploitation. So, it seems odd that they choose a cover photo that clearly shows a totally unnatural harbour and a long channel dredged through the seabed off Koh Kradad, near Koh Mak.

The big news this week that affects a lot of people across Thailand is the new limit on number of 30 day 'Visa on Arrival's that foreigners can get. If you're on a two week holiday this doesn't affect you at all, but there are a lot of people who are working, travelling long-term or are retirees etc and rely on the simplicity of being able to hop over the border every 30 days to renew their visas. From 1 October onwards they'll limited to a maximum 90 days entry on VOAs in any 6 month period, this can be 3 consecutive 30 day entries or a dozen or more shorter visits - but either way the total is 90 days stay in Thailand out of every 180 days. These border hoppers have to either pay some money and get a proper visa or find another country to stay in. On KC the businesses most affected will be dive schools as virtually all dive instructors in Thailand are employed on a cash in hand basis and so are continually making visa runs. This coming high season they'll have to get multiple entry tourist visas in advance. Not a major hassle but an inconvenience for many. If anyone is looking for a way to get a multiple entry, 12 month Non-Immigrant 'B' or 'O' visa, send me an email - I know someone who can help out.

Meanwhile, how are the efforts to transform Koh Chang into an upmarket paradise that Thailand can be proud of going?

Golf is a sport that attracts the high rollers with bad fashion sense, a love of plaid and a credit card. Phuket has several courses, amongst them Mission Hills - designed by the Nicholas family, Jack Snr was a well know player in his day. Samui has Santiburi golf club, rated by some as being in the top 25 courses in the world.

Not wanting to be left out, here on Koh Chang, a new crazy golf venue, in the old car park of the 3x3 Plaza, Kai Bae is being set up. I took a quick look at the course and it appears to be 9 holes, Par 27, roughly 40 yards in length. There's a dog leg, amongst other body parts, but I'm sure that will be cleaned up before the course officially opens. Miss it & miss out. (Tartan cap, stay-pressed strides and a fondness for Tiger Wood's balls are all optional.) No mention as to whether female caddies will be provided. For anyone new to golf in Thailand . . . if you thought 'the 19th hole' was the clubhouse bar, you're mistaken ;-)

But, apart from that one major attraction opening, a quick look at two recent posts on the Lonely Planet Discussion Board would seem to indicate that it's a while yet before 'Utopia' status is reached . . .

8 Sep - "Last night a group of backpackers arrived on Koh Chang with their latest purchase from Jartujak market Bkk. A baby monkey not more than 3 weeks old, it could fit in the palm of your hand. The stupidity of this blows me out of the water. Feeding it all kinds of junk food; being an instant source of attention and at the end of the day left with the only one option, leaving it behind in the jungle when they continued their travels. I am not David Attenborough but the chances of its survival and its acceptance by other closely knit wild monkey groups is virtually negligible. Please think!!!"

9 Sep - "I recently had one week off and spent it on White sands beach, Koh Chang. Seriously, what is up with the English guys selling drugs on the beach after hours? I met two idiots 25 something, on my way back home one night, trying to sell me ganja and xtc with an offer to join their party back at a bar/bungalow area they partly owned. I told them to **** off and went to bed. Next morning I asked my Thai hotel manager if local ?????? knew about them and he said something like "Yes, it's alright, they pay ?????? to be able to market their bar with drugs". That sounded unbelievable to me, could foreigners really be that stupid or ignorant? I presume they don't know the penalties for selling or using drugs in Thailand. How ****** up can you get? Paying locals to shut up about your drug scam, good luck...I hope they rot in hell"

( The ?????? is an edit on my part. Just say 'No' to drugs & corruption, kids.)

And finally, as part of the tourist authorities plans to encourage people to spend more money in Thailand, the price for entry to all National Parks has now been increased from 200 to 400 baht for foreigners. On Koh Chang, this will only affect you if you want to see one of the two waterfalls which visitors often go to - Klong Plu & Than Mayom falls. If you've seen a waterfall before, save your money or visit Kiriphet or Klong Neung waterfalls in the south east of the island - these are free.

10 Sep

10 Sep Two photos in today's update. On the right is the sunset from a couple of days ago and at the bottom of the page the view from Long Beach, also taken a couple of days ago.

Had a fun 24 hours recently which started when an oil line broke on our pick-up and it ground to a halt on the unfinished road down to Wai Chek beach (which is now washed out so you cant drive to the beach anymore unless you're on a motorbike). Got a tow back OK, only to find that one of our guests was having a weird adverse effect to some prescription drugs. The general consensus amongst the amateur physicians that were on hand was that she looked like something out of Dawn of the Dead. So she had to be rushed of to hospital and spent the night there. Fortunately the car will be fixed soon for only a couple of thousand baht and the guest has made a quick recovery.

Jim & his yacht, "Remington" are currently down in Malaysia, off Tioman Island, and want to know if anyone fancies a trip up to the Perhentians and then back down to Tioman and past Singapore to Phuket, where he's due a re-fit - apparently the dodger and genoa are on the way out. (I don't have a clue what that means either.) For info see www.sail-remington.com

We've still got one room left for 14-20 January, other than that our place is already fully booked from mid-November to mid-February. So it looks like this coming high season will be busier on KC than last year. I'm getting a lot of emails from families looking for rooms/bungalows as many hotels say they limit the number of kids in a room to one - which isn't much good if you have 2 kids. If anyone has any recommendations for places, let me know and I'll pass them on when I answer emails

More boat stuff . . . A Danish icebreaker . . .(see if you can guess the name) . . . the 'Hans Christian Andersen', is Koh Chang bound, having set sail from Denmark in late August. There will be 15 members of staff on board catering to the needs of up to 40 guests who are looking for an experience rather than luxury travel, according to the report on Scandasia.com

Some folks working for a internet company based in Bangkok thought it would be a good idea if their new Koh Chang site had some content worth reading. So they simply cut & paste half of this site plus dozens of my posts from the Tripadvisor discussion board and claimed they'd written it. The stuff they ripped off has now been removed and I got a "I don't know how it could have happened' type of apology from someone pretending to be the boss. So, if you're looking for a hotel booking site please avoid kohchangonline.com. They also claim 7 years experience of living on Koh Chang which is nonsense and their parent site is on a blacklist of sites listed as being unauthorised agents for a major hotel in Bangkok. If you just want to book a hotel, there are lots of other sites to choose from.

2 Sep

2 Sept - Protein packed & crunchy with a soft centre, I found the ideal snack for our dog. Young Nigel, egged on by his brother, Ken, climbed in there of his own free will, no idea why, but that's one reason why cats don't rule the world.

Just found out that this site was recommended on The Times newspaper's list of the world's best travel websites on July 31st. But that probably says more about the poor quality of most travel sites than it does about the merits of this one. Still it's nice to know someone reads it.

A few days ago the Thai newspapers reported that the government had approved a whopping 40 million baht (almost the same as a luxury villa in Phuket would cost you) for infrastructure projects on Koh Chang including two waste water plants and a garbage disposal plant. I wonder if this is a different garbage disposal plant to the one that was reported in March 2004 as being approved and had a 50 million baht budget allocated, and which would produce fertiliser from waste materials. Or maybe it's the same one as the garbage disposal plant that was scheduled to open by the end of 2005 and which would reduce the amount of garbage by recycling 80 per cent of all trash. The non-recyclable stuff would be shipped to a garbage landfill on the mainland. Obviously the designers of this plant know something that no-one else does, as the ability to recycle 80% of all garbage is one that no other recycling facility in the world has. It'll be interesting to see if the money goes on anything other than digging another large hole in the ground.

Had lunch with a guy who designs frocks for Pink & Christina Aguliera as well as sunglasses for Brad Pitt & J.Lo, the other day. Which pushes the ex-member of Massive Attack, whom I met whilst out canoeing a while ago, down a position on my 'Barely Recognisable Celebrity Island' list.

Good value Chanote titled land on Koh Mak for sale. Sea views, 2 minutes walk to two sandy beaches. 5 Rai in total, but buyers are limited to a maximum of 1 Rai (1600sqm) each. Half Rai = 1.2 million baht, 1 Rai = 2.3 million baht. More info here.

Down in Lonely Beach the very nice Oasis Bungalows is now under new ownership, although Aomm & Tarn will stay on and look after the place for the new owners this high season.

There's one beachfront plot of land for at Siam Royal View, for sale by the owner. All beachfront plots have long been sold. Price 7.5 million (negotiable). Email me if you're interested and I'll put you in touch with the seller - an English guy.

In Kai Bae, I noticed that the 'Happy Elephant' has closed barely a month after it opened. This was a western run drinks/ice cream parlour/restaurant type of place that wasn't trendy enough to attract the beautiful people and didn't appear to be cheap enough to attract the backpackers. No idea what the story is however, but it now holds the record for the shortest lived farang owned business on KC. With luck, the owner sold it on to someone for a crazy price.

As of 1 Sept, all Thai mobile phones now have an extra digit, they will all begin '08' instead of '0'. So 01-555-xxxx now becomes 081-555-xxxx. However, the old number will work until 30 Nov.